Patis Tito Garden Café, San Pablo, Laguna.
In my last trip to our home country late last year, I was truly grateful for the chance to visit 2 outstanding places in the outskirts of Manila which gave me a deep, moving sense of my roots. Thanks to a good friend of ours Benjang Alvendia. Perhaps, it was just my pervading consciousness at the time but I believe that this is something universal – that, at some point in our life, we all have this innate desire to examine our origins, our roots. And we take great comfort and a quiet kind of joy in doing so. It could be disruptive, at times. Even cathartic. In the long run, I still think it is better to face what has to be faced. More often than not, from my experience at least, I have discovered that the very fear I feared was really not so daunting after all. Like having your hair turn from black to gray. At least some of the hair, as in my case.
As Irene Marcos Araneta said, whilst we were conversing (of all places) amidst the down jackets at the flagship Uniqlo Ginza store last October 2023, “ Isn’t it so relieving not to color one’s hair” or words to that effect. The context of the exchange was having salt and pepper hair (which we both have, including Dawn Zulueta who was with her) and what a relief it is not to have to color one’s hair anymore. Amen to that.
Going back to heritage places that gives a sense of Filipino-ness — it was never more so than when I visited the much-talked-about- among- certain- circles art workshop/enclave/bed & breakfast place of the Filipino artist and “revolutionary” traditional Filipino fashion designer Maria Beatriz Pamintuan Tesoro, or popularly known as “Patis”Tesoro. If you google Patis Tito Garden Café, you can find out more about this interesting 3-hectare or so art center in San Pablo, Laguna, which, by the way, is also a restaurant. One has to make reservations ahead of time though. Tito Tesoro, was her late beloved husband who I had the opportunity to work with in some theater productions in Ateneo. Yes, he belongs to the Tesoro family which still has a very successful Philippine handicrafts store in Makati,
In my case, the café was just a bonus, the icing on the cake. I was more interested in having a glimpse of the inner workings of the inimitable Patis Tesoro, whose clothes designs I have so admired through all the years. I had 2 pieces of clothes designed by her in the past. Both were gifts from generous friends. Her clothes carry hefty price tags. And rightly so. After all, they are one-of-a-kind works of art.
She had several houses built there which used parts from other antique houses around the Philippines. With painted murals on the wall which, naturally, she designed but was executed by her apprentice/student Madonna, who, by the way, takes in your café reservations as well. It was an enchanting place. A sort of “halo-halo”, “tagpi-tagpi” wonderland, just like the concept of her clothing designs. An exquisite amalgam of different fabrics sewn together with here and there appliques and random hand embroidered embellishments. She has brought the concept of “upcycling” to a different level. As far as I am concerned, she has brought it to a level of art.
If you search up her place online, there are photos which give you an idea of how prolific and creative she is when it comes to art and life. I have much more to say about Patis Tesoro. Suffice it to say for now, that if you have some time to spare while in Manila, do take a trip to the Patis Tito Garden Café in San Pablo, Laguna. This is a heritage destination that should not be missed. It is only 2 or 3 hours ride from Manila. Perhaps less without the traffic. But Manila is not Manila without traffic. Ask Chris Martin of the band Coldplay.
Crescent Moon Café and Pottery Studio in Antipolo, Rizal
Another destination worth making a trip to when in Manila, inspite of the traffic, is to the Crescent Moon Café and Pottery Studio in Antipolo, Rizal. In their website, it is “a Southeast Asian restaurant, pottery store, and art space in Antipolo City, Phiippines.”
Crescent Moon is owned and run by Lanelle Abueva, a niece of the National Artist for Sculpture Napoleon Abueva. As stated in their website —
“The story of Crescent Moon is one of family, friends, and food.
Lanelle Abueva started her ceramic home studio in Antipolo in 1981, having finished a 3-year apprenticeship in Hachijojima, Japan and a 1-year course in Sun Valley, Idaho.”
Lanelle married Bey Fernando who was a law graduate from the UP College of Law, and was practicing law with a firm in Makati. They settled down in Antipolo with their 2 daughters. As her burgeoning career with ceramics was growing, another development gave rise eventually to Crescent Moon.
“To unwind from the long commute and the stress of litigation, he (Bey) would spend weekends cooking for friends and guests of Lanelle who would make the trek to their Antipolo home for her ceramics. It was a perfect combination – Lanelle cooked the plates and Bey cooked the food.” Cooking was his 2nd passion it seems. Or maybe his 1st? But the fame of his dishes did not go unnoticed.
To the day I was there in Crescent Moon, through the gracious generosity of our good friends Leo and Bubut Rialp, who have a beautiful home in Antipolo, the dishes served in Crescent Moon were top-notch. Very unique and creative. Different and tasty. Dishes that are culled from different cuisines from Southeast Asia, including the Philippines, naturally.
Check out their website as well. They have photos that show how attractive and conducive to relaxation and camaraderie the place is. A perfect art space with excellent food in the midst of nature. So refreshing. But, of course, the proof is in the tasting. So, when in Manila, brave the traffic to Antipolo and make a trip to Crescent Moon Café and Pottery Studio.
Before I take my leave, let me greet you in advance, a happy and prosperous New Lunar New Year! The year of the dragon.
Tessie Ochangco Taylor
taylorteresita@gmail.com